Towards Ebbett’s Pass and Pacific Grade (infrared)

Introduction

Are you a cyclist aching to explore some beautiful climbs in California’s Eastern Sierra mountains? Then put the Kiss of Death at the top of your list. So named for the famous Death Ride, the Kiss of Death includes nearly all of the Death Ride passes in three days, rather than the grueling single day Death Ride.

Great fun, and a great value

You can certainly plan your own cycling trip, but for only a modest amount more than the price of the lodging and food, you can enjoy the company of other like-minded cyclists, take comfort in sag support, and just “show up” without having to plan anything more than what clothing to wear and which bike(s) and wheel(s) you want to bring.

Schwag—in your room upon arrival

Five years running

I’ve ridden Terry and Mary Morse’s Kiss of Death Markleeville-area trip for four years now (five including this coming June 8 trip). Terry is the face behind Undiscovered Country Tours. He and his wife Mary do all the grunt work for you, selecting excellent food, lodging and riding routes. Their trips are personable and fun, not mass-marketed formula trips like some of the larger bike touring companies. The Morses seek out interesting out-of-the-way places that are great for cycling, and have quality (though not necessarily fancy) lodging, good food, and a friendly atmosphere.

Terry and Mary Morse, the duo behind Undiscovered Country Tours

Who will like the trips?

Cyclists interested in riding. That’s not to say that you have to ride the whole route or that you will in any way be “pushed” to ride more than you want—quite the contrary. But if your goal is to be a dilettante cyclist, or cycling is an afterthought, the UDC Tours trips are not for you. The same goes for lodging—if you’re the type that demands a 4-star hotel with bellhops and a concierge desk, these trips are not for you either—such requirements frequently must exclude the most interesting venues. However, UDC Tours does offer custom designed trips for groups that might prefer luxury accomodations.

You’ll ride thoughtfully-chosen routes with a group of friendly companions (or alone if you prefer—it’s up to you). Your day ends with a relaxing evening with good food and fun company. Terry works hard to discover quality dining in the local area—no chain restaurant food on his trips.

Each of the years I attended Kiss of Death, there were one or two “hard core” cyclists out of the dozen or so attending. Such people in the group are good sources for cycling knowledge at breakfast; no need to sprint after them on the ride! Most of the group is much more interested in having fun than coming home exhausted. Quite a few couples attend the Kiss of Death, so consider bringing your significant other.

Happy faces, great views.

Details of the day

The routes are carefully chosen to maximize fun and minimize traffic (though most of the passes on the Kiss of Death are inherently low traffic). Over breakfast, Terry provides a route map printed on waterproof paper (little details like waterproof paper are what Terry pays attention to). Each morning, a distance and elevation chart is also supplied, which is helpful for considering which summits one wants to attempt that day (all of them, legs willing!). Also, all of the routes are “out and back”, meaning that one can simply turn around and head back at any time.

Route map—printed on map paper

The day’s distance and elevation

The route options are discussed each morning, with an opportunity to ask questions.

Discussing the days’s route options

Lunch

Each day there is a lunch stop. One of my favorites is the tiny Bear Valley one (not sure of the name). It’s a relaxing and quiet stop, with great food served by friendly people. Just don’t stop too long and let rigor mortis set in on your legs!

The tasty offerings in Bear Valley

Sag

One of the great pluses of cycling these passes with a group is having “sag” support. Whether it’s water, snacks, mechanical failures, or just tired legs, the sag vehicle is your backup plan. Terry is an expert mechanic with a toolkit in the sag vehicle if that chain goes to chain heaven. You can also stow your own personal food, drinks, clothing, etc in the Sag Wag.

Want to “sag”?
Ride the Sag Wag with your bike on top

Radios

An in-vehicle radio system means that you can even take a radio with you if you want the reassurance of being able to contact Sag (the number of radios is limited, not enough for all riders, but most won’t want to carry the extra weight).

Status check

Clothing

For the Kiss of Death, very early mornings can be cool (45-50°F), and the high passes near large snowbanks can also be cool (snowbanks disappear by early July most years). But excepting a late season rain or snow storm, even the high passes become very pleasant by late morning (which is the usual time one arrives at the first summit). By late afternoon, it will often be quite warm on south-facing climbs like the lower part of Monitor Pass. In general, be prepared for temps from 45°F to 85°F in early June, add 10° for summer months.

You’ll want a true windbreaker or medium weight wind-resistant jacket for some of the higher passes, especially if you’re a small or lean rider. I recommend the 8.5 oz North Face Diad, which is windproof and waterproof, and fits into a jersey pocket (see picture below). While it’s not cycling-specific, it offers outstanding protection, and can be used for a variety of activities.

Your author near Blue Lakes, in the North Face Diad jacket

You’ll also want to bring a pair of light weight tights. These suggestions are less important as the season progresses into summer, though it’s always a good idea to be prepared with a jacket in the mountains.

Snow plows and snow

Yes, snow plows are still in use in early June, to dig out certain high Sierra roads. But the roads are clear and dry and clean (barring a late-season storm).

Terry Morse, on his “last legs”

The passes

Sonora Pass

While all of the other passes are quite manageable for a strong cyclist, Sonora Pass will be very intimidating except for the most ardent climber—it certainly was the case for your author on his first attempt. But the views on the top half are well worth it.

With grades peaking at 26% (according to the road signs), your legs need to be in top condition to attempt it. The first mile is very challenging, with a heart-pounding 18% grade for the better part of a mile that eventually levels out to a friendlier 7% or so, with even a brief bit of flat-to-down, before climbing again to the infamous 26% section, which is an “S”-curve type section. The last portions before the summit pass the 20% mark again.

Monitor Pass

Monitor Pass is one of my favorites, offering a comfortable grade up a tree-filled valley, broadening into a large meadow area with numerous flowers in full bloom by late June or early July.

A steady grade of about 7% climbs 2800 feet to a level summit. Late in the day, the south-facing lower portion can be quite warm, but the upper meadow area cools significantly, becoming very pleasant.

Monitor Pass Summit (infrared)

Monitor Pass seen from nearby peak (infrared)

Pacific Grade and Ebbett’s Pass

These are two fairly challenging summits in succession which should not be missed. Lunch in Bear Valley makes a terrific out-and-back day trip.

The approach to Pacific Grade / Ebbett’s Pass

Lake about to “ice out” approaching Pacific Grade
Air temperatures are very pleasant in spite of such suggestive views

Frozen lake near summit of Ebbett’s Pass

Blue Lakes

A moderate and pleasant climb, Blue Lakes tends to have heavy snowfall. Riding between the snowbanks is a rare treat, and the roads are largely dry in spite of the snowbanks.

Terry Morse of UDC Tours ascending Blue Lakes Road, early June 2006

Down Blue Lakes Road, early June 2006
Riding between snow banks like this is a rare treat!

Conclusions

Whether you want an introduction to high Sierra cycling, prep for the Death Ride, or just want the convenience of a pre-planned trip, the Markleeville Kiss of Death might be your ticket to 3 1/2 days of some of the most beautiful cycling available, with no obligation to ride all the passes or to do any more than you’d like to. Great scenery abounds, and it’s a great way to enjoy the mountains.

Up or down?

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